KAMLEIKA NOW PFC & PFAS FREE
The flagship 4-way stretch waterproof softshell pioneered by OMM in 2005 has won many fans and no shortages of awards in the last 20 years but it now boasts its most sustainable manufacture yet, with PFC-free DWR and PFAS-free Bio-Membrane.
WHO KNOWS THEIR PFAS FROM THEIR ELBOW?
PFC: Polyfluorocarbons are durable polymer chains used in traditional C6 & C8 water-repellent treatments or DWR. Harmful to the aquatic environment but very good at shedding water and oils. The C number refers to the number of carbons in the molecular chain. The longer the chain, the bigger the molecule, the longer it takes to break down. There was an industry-wide switch from C8 to C6 in the belief that this was a less harmful version of the chemical but subsequent studies have found this not to be the case. There have now been changes to the laws regarding hazardous chemicals that will lead to these being phased out from most clothing and garments.
PFAS: Polyfluoroalkyl is another “forever chemical” used in non-stick pans, fire extinguishers, pesticides and of course, waterproof membranes. Like PFCs, these are very harmful to marine and aquatic life and can even find their way into the human body with studies linking long-term exposure to thyroid disease, immune system disruption, cancer and low birth weights.
THE CHALLENGE
The search for more sustainable waterproofing solutions has been going on for almost as long as the Kamleika has been around but for many years, whilst alternatives existed, they could not match the performance of these long-chain chemical technologies.
Only once we discovered an alternative compound that matched the performance of C6 and with the deadline for phase-out fast approaching, were we prepared to switch.
We believe that alternative has now been found and have begun the first production runs of shells using PFC & PFAS-free Kamleika fabric, including a switch to a new bio-membrane, instead of the usual oil-based PU found in most waterproofs. Products featuring this new Kamleika fabric will have a new PFC/PFAS-free stamp on their label, for easy identification.
The first Kamleika products featuring the PFC & PFAS free fabrics will be available from September 2024
NOT JUST KAMLEIKA
Though over a decade in development, this is just another step towards improving the sustainability of our production methods and products whilst maintaining their performance.
The next generation of OMM outer layers, such as the Aether Jacket, will also include a PFC-free DWR and PFA-free membrane. Any other fabrics in the rest of the OMM range, that use a DWR, will also switch to the PFC-free version when new production runs commence. But this is an ongoing process and only once we are certain a production line is completely free of these agents, will we mark it as such.
WHAT’S THE CATCH?
Whilst we were only prepared to make the switch once satisfied the performance matched the products already in use, it’s not all rainbows and butterflies; there are important considerations and even a little compromise that comes with these new chemical technologies.
One of the things that made PFCs so useful in a DWR was their durability (clue is in the name), especially the old C8 compounds and to a similar extent, the C6 but what made for a good water-resistant treatment is what makes it so damaging to the environment.
For this reason, the new generation of waterproofing technologies (both DWR and membranes) will necessarily require a little more frequent care and attention in order to perform at the same level. Luckily this is easily achieved with regular washing and reproofing, using designated cleaners and proofers (and avoiding detergents!) such as Grangers.
WATERPROOFING EXPLAINED
DWR:
Durable Water Repellancy; the chemical treatment applied to breathable fabrics to make the water run off the surface, responsible for the ‘beading’ effect. This is an essential part of the waterproofing system, as the membrane can only work if there is a positive pressure gradient to take your body vapour (yes – sweat) out through the fabric – breathe. It’s also how ‘water-resistant’ fabrics (like your windproof or softshell) manage to offer a bit of extra protection, without the added membrane.
MEMBRANE:
A membrane is a selectively permeable barrier with holes big enough to allow water vapour through but small enough to not allow water droplets in and so remain waterproof yet breathable. Usually made from PU (Polyurethane) or ePTFE (expanded polytetrafluoroethylene). Both work on having little holes (micropores) that are smaller than water droplets but are bigger than water vapour, so your steamy sweat can pass straight through i.e. breathe. If liquid water covers the holes, then the vapour can’t get through.
Thermodynamics (bear with us) dictate that the outside of the membrane must be dryer and/or cooler than the inside or it’s not going to work, the DWR keeps this differential for as long as possible. When the DWR is overwhelmed or worn away, the face fabric of your jacket starts to saturate or wet out but don’t panic the membrane is still keeping the water out but no longer breathing; so, you are stewing in your own sweat until you can dry out a bit – nice! Our point is; it’s important stuff.
